Gastrointestinal parasite infestation is one of the most common and most dangerous conditions that negatively impact equine health. A heavy dose of parasites will keep an adult animal from thriving and a foal from developing normally. Horse wormers kill internal worms; both chemical and natural formulas are available. Because there are many different organisms to fight and because varying the formula for successive treatments is recommended, it's important to know the options and how each product works.
Although it's helpful to know all the organisms that infest horses, owners usually only have to confront a few of them. However, tapeworms, intestinal threadworms, large and small strongyles, ascarids or roundworms, bots, pinworms, lumgworms, hairworms, and large-mouth stomach worms are all potential problems. Fecal and blood tests identify which parasites are infecting a particular animal.
Owners can often tell if a horse is 'wormy' by its appearance and actions. If there is a serious infestation, the animal will be lethargic and hard to keep weight on, with frequent bouts of colic or diarrhea. The coat will be rough and dull, and the tail may be rubbed at the top.
Knowing which parasites are prevalent in your area, as well as seasonal changes in parasitic lifestyles, will help when setting up a schedule for worming. For instance, bot flies lay their eggs in summer, so horses wormed in the fall won't need a product that is effective on bot larvae for spring treatments. Some soils and climate conditions are worse than others for keeping pastures infected, and animals on overgrazed land are usually at greater risk.
There are both chemical and non-chemical ways to keep animals healthy. Chemical wormers are targeted; in other words, they are effective against certain kinds of worms. Some broad-spectrum worming agents kill many species; Ivermectin is one generic name for a compound that combats many different parasites. It's important to read the labels or get a vet's advice when choosing a wormer; not all of them work against tapeworms, for example.
Rotating pastures helps control parasitic invasions. When a field 'rests' for six months or more, eggs and larvae will die off. Many people run cows for half the year, followed by horses. Mowing and dragging pasture to expose larvae to birds and other predators helps also. Picking up droppings on a weekly basis is the best mechanical way to keep pastures clean.
Diatomaceous earth is a natural powder made up of microscopic fossils. Mixing this with feed is effective, natural, and gentle; it's especially helpful for very old animals which have become sensitive to strong worming chemicals. There are herbal and homeopathic mixtures that can be used. More conventional commercial products come in paste pr pellet form for occasional or daily use.
Even if droppings are quickly picked up and worming is not necessary on a regular basis, a fecal check is recommended twice yearly. Keeping animals parasite-free is part of the owner's responsibility. Owners can depend on their vet's advice or establish their own schedule.
It's a complicated subject, but it's not hard to understand with a little research. The internet makes learning easy, whether you want to know which products are available or the life cycle of the ascarid.
Although it's helpful to know all the organisms that infest horses, owners usually only have to confront a few of them. However, tapeworms, intestinal threadworms, large and small strongyles, ascarids or roundworms, bots, pinworms, lumgworms, hairworms, and large-mouth stomach worms are all potential problems. Fecal and blood tests identify which parasites are infecting a particular animal.
Owners can often tell if a horse is 'wormy' by its appearance and actions. If there is a serious infestation, the animal will be lethargic and hard to keep weight on, with frequent bouts of colic or diarrhea. The coat will be rough and dull, and the tail may be rubbed at the top.
Knowing which parasites are prevalent in your area, as well as seasonal changes in parasitic lifestyles, will help when setting up a schedule for worming. For instance, bot flies lay their eggs in summer, so horses wormed in the fall won't need a product that is effective on bot larvae for spring treatments. Some soils and climate conditions are worse than others for keeping pastures infected, and animals on overgrazed land are usually at greater risk.
There are both chemical and non-chemical ways to keep animals healthy. Chemical wormers are targeted; in other words, they are effective against certain kinds of worms. Some broad-spectrum worming agents kill many species; Ivermectin is one generic name for a compound that combats many different parasites. It's important to read the labels or get a vet's advice when choosing a wormer; not all of them work against tapeworms, for example.
Rotating pastures helps control parasitic invasions. When a field 'rests' for six months or more, eggs and larvae will die off. Many people run cows for half the year, followed by horses. Mowing and dragging pasture to expose larvae to birds and other predators helps also. Picking up droppings on a weekly basis is the best mechanical way to keep pastures clean.
Diatomaceous earth is a natural powder made up of microscopic fossils. Mixing this with feed is effective, natural, and gentle; it's especially helpful for very old animals which have become sensitive to strong worming chemicals. There are herbal and homeopathic mixtures that can be used. More conventional commercial products come in paste pr pellet form for occasional or daily use.
Even if droppings are quickly picked up and worming is not necessary on a regular basis, a fecal check is recommended twice yearly. Keeping animals parasite-free is part of the owner's responsibility. Owners can depend on their vet's advice or establish their own schedule.
It's a complicated subject, but it's not hard to understand with a little research. The internet makes learning easy, whether you want to know which products are available or the life cycle of the ascarid.
No comments:
Post a Comment